BOLOGNA, EMILIA-ROMAGNA – September 2025 – A two-week expedition through the culinary heartlands of Northern Italy concluded recently, offering participants an unparalleled immersion into traditional and contemporary Italian gastronomy, with a particular focus on the intricate art of sourdough baking. Organized by "The Perfect Loaf" in collaboration with TASTE and Food Time, led by culinary expert and baker Maurizio Leo, the tour attracted a diverse group of "bread-heads" eager to deepen their understanding of Italian food culture from the unique perspective of a baker and a traveler.
The journey, which followed a successful 2024 trip to Puglia and Naples, was meticulously structured to provide hands-on workshops alongside exclusive access to renowned producers and eateries across Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy. It underscored a growing trend in experiential tourism, where travelers seek not just to observe, but to actively participate in the cultural fabric of their destination.
Week 1: Bologna’s Sourdough Deep Dive
The first week commenced in Bologna, the vibrant capital of Emilia-Romagna, often celebrated as Italy’s gastronomic epicentre. Known for its porticoes, medieval architecture, and rich culinary traditions, Bologna provided an ideal setting for an intensive sourdough workshop. Participants, guided by Leo, engaged in a comprehensive exploration of sourdough techniques, producing a diverse array of baked goods including baguettes, country loaves, ciabatta, and pizza, utilizing a selection of specialized Italian flours.
Prior to the workshop, Leo meticulously prepared his sourdough starter for international travel, a critical step for any baker venturing abroad. Employing a stiff consistency (50% water to total flour) for air travel and a backup batch in checked luggage, he ensured the starter’s vitality. Upon arrival, a quick revival process involving local flour and warm water at a Carrefour supermarket and his hotel room brought the starter to peak activity within 24 hours, ready for the rigorous baking schedule. This preparatory ritual highlights the dedication required in sourdough baking, even when thousands of miles from one’s home kitchen.
The workshop itself was hosted in a local cooking school, where participants were introduced to the nuances of working with Italian Type 00 flour. This finely milled soft wheat flour, while ideal for delicate pastries and pasta, presents unique challenges in high-hydration sourdoughs due to its lower protein content compared to North American or other European bread flours. Leo adapted recipes by reducing hydration by at least 5%, illustrating the critical need for bakers to understand their ingredients and environment. This practical adjustment, alongside techniques like increased folds during bulk fermentation or a second preshape, became a valuable real-time lesson in dough troubleshooting, reinforcing the adage that hands-on experience surpasses theoretical knowledge.
"There’s something irreplaceable about watching someone work with dough in the same room, about learning through direct observation and touch. As they say, poking dough with your own finger is worth a thousand words," Leo remarked, emphasizing the pedagogical value of in-person instruction. The workshop also covered essential topics such as sourdough starter maintenance, the role of a levain, and troubleshooting common baking issues.
Beyond the classroom, the group delved into Bologna’s legendary food scene. An early dinner at Antica Osteria del Mirasole, renowned for its traditional dishes like tagliatelle with ragù and tortellini in brodo, set a high culinary benchmark for the week. These excursions to local producers and markets seamlessly integrated with the workshop, allowing participants to source ingredients and experience the regional culinary landscape firsthand. The week culminated in a lively pizza party, where over twenty sourdough pizzas were baked in a traditional bread oven, adorned with local ingredients such as fior di latte mozzarella, creamy gorgonzola, prosciutto, and fresh figs. This communal feast served as a joyful celebration of new skills and burgeoning friendships.
Week 2: From Bologna’s Countryside to Milan’s Urban Sophistication
Following a brief interlude that included a visit to Olivieri, a celebrated panettone baker near Verona, the second week commenced, drawing both new participants and a few enthusiastic returnees. This leg of the journey transitioned from intensive workshop to guided exploration, focusing on touring and specialized mini-workshops across diverse locales.
The tour began in Riolo di Terme, a tranquil spa town near Bologna, offering a serene backdrop to the group’s activities. Here, Leo led a sourdough piadine workshop, introducing participants to the local flatbread, traditionally served with regional cured meats and cheeses. This informal session served as an excellent icebreaker, fostering camaraderie among the travelers.
A highlight of the week was a visit to Monghidoro, where the group explored an ancient chestnut flour mill and traditional stone flour mills. This provided invaluable insight into the historical milling practices that underpin much of Italy’s baking heritage. Further enhancing this experience, Matteo and his family from Forno Calzolari, a local bakery committed to using locally grown and milled grains, hosted a sourdough starter workshop, a dough shaping session, and a bake-off in their wood-fired oven. This intimate encounter with a family-run operation dedicated to healthful, community-focused bread deeply resonated with the participants, showcasing the authentic spirit of Italian artisanal baking. The unique shaping style of their local bread and the unparalleled taste of wood-fired tomatoes served alongside were particularly memorable.
Evenings were punctuated by authentic Italian hospitality. An impromptu aperitivo at the hotel in Riolo di Terme, featuring an array of local bakery treats—focaccia, pizza, grissini, crescentine, and panettone from Olivieri—paired with spritzes, exemplified the Italian ritual of pre-dinner socializing, creating an atmosphere of festive relaxation.
The Queens of Emilia-Romagna: Pasta and Dairy
A significant cultural detour involved a pasta-making workshop at VSB (Vecchia Scuola Bolognese) with Maestra Spisni and her family. Participants were initiated into the intricate art of rolling sfoglia, the delicate pasta dough essential for regional specialties like tagliatelle, tortellini, and tortelloni. While mastery of this craft, akin to bread-making, requires years, the workshop provided a fun and engaging introduction, culminating in a fresh pasta lunch.
A guided walking tour through Bologna’s historic center further enriched the experience, taking the group through ancient markets and historical sites, punctuated by tastings of freshly made tortellini and tortelloni. Despite previous indulgences, the allure of perfectly crafted pasta with butter and sage proved irresistible. The quest for Bologna’s best gelato also featured prominently, with a visit to Cremeria La Vecchia Stalla, though the perennial favorite, Cremeria Cavour, maintained its esteemed status among the connoisseurs. The day concluded with a delightful carb-rich dinner at Ristorante Da Cesari, preparing palates for the next day’s dairy and vinegar adventures.
The journey into Emilia-Romagna’s epicurean heart continued with a private tour of Latteria La Grande, a major Parmigiano Reggiano producer. Witnessing the transformation of raw milk into towering wheels of cheese in traditional copper vats was a captivating experience, highlighting the centuries-old techniques and meticulous care involved in crafting this protected designation of origin (PDO) product. Parmigiano Reggiano, a cornerstone of Italian cuisine, holds significant economic value, with its production strictly regulated to maintain its authenticity and quality. The tour led to enthusiastic purchases, with many attendees wisely acquiring a second suitcase to accommodate their cheesy treasures.
The day concluded with a visit to Acetaia Leonardi for a balsamic vinegar tasting and lunch. Here, participants learned about the traditional methods of producing Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, a labor-intensive process involving grape must aging in a series of wooden barrels for many years, often decades. The lunch ingeniously showcased the versatility of balsamic vinegar, featuring it on cheese, bread, pasta, and even panettone, revealing its depth and complexity beyond simple salad dressing.
Milan: Panettone, Innovation, and Farewell
The tour then shifted gears, transferring to Milan, a city embodying a distinct blend of industry, high fashion, and innovative cuisine. Milan’s culinary landscape, with its focus on risotto, cotoletta, and a trendy aperitivo scene, offered a fascinating contrast to Bologna’s more traditional, meat-and-pasta-heavy fare.
Before diving into the two-day panettone workshop, a stop at Pasticceria Marchese provided a benchmark experience. The panettone, characterized by its light, open crumb, high-quality candied fruit, and absence of glaze (a Milanese preference), was hailed as one of the best tasted, setting a high standard for the upcoming workshop.
The panettone workshop itself served as an introduction to what many consider one of the most challenging breads to master. The chef provided an extensive overview of the complex process, which heavily relies on a specialized sourdough starter known as lievito madre. Participants gained hands-on experience with dividing, shaping, and scoring the delicate dough, achieving impressive results. This workshop illuminated the dedication and precision required to produce this iconic Italian sweet bread.
The final day included a casual lunch and a visit to Davide Longoni’s bakery, a name revered for its commitment to the "grain to loaf" philosophy. The bakery’s efficient, laboratory-like space featured a prototype mill, underscoring their dedication to controlling every aspect of their bread-making process, from sourcing and milling grain to the final bake. The passionate and knowledgeable staff articulated their unwavering focus on crafting exceptional products, a testament to the growing demand for artisanal, traceable food.
The visit culminated in a group tasting of Longoni’s diverse breads, paired with local cheeses, cured meats, and wines. The "pizza alla palla," akin to a light and airy focaccia, was particularly lauded for its delicate texture and exquisite flavor. This final aperitivo offered a moment of collective appreciation for the craft and community encountered throughout the trip.
The tour concluded with a farewell dinner at Bistrot Da Giacomo, an elegant Milanese establishment. Beyond the elevated cuisine, the meal served as a poignant reflection of the strong bonds formed among participants who, despite starting as strangers, had forged deep friendships through shared passions and immersive culinary experiences. As Anthony Bourdain once suggested, experiencing Italy not as a tourist but as a traveler—and in this case, as a baker—truly enriches the journey.
Outlook for Future Culinary Expeditions
The success of these immersive culinary tours signals a strong demand for specialized, hands-on travel experiences that delve into the authentic food traditions of Italy. Plans are already in motion for future trips, with a break slated for 2026 before returning with one or possibly two new itineraries in 2027. Enthusiasts are encouraged to monitor "The Perfect Loaf’s" travel page for updates on upcoming workshops and destinations, as the quest for the perfect loaf, and the perfect culinary journey, continues.
