Bologna, Italy – September 2025 marked the successful conclusion of a two-week gastronomic and artisanal bread-making tour across Northern Italy, spearheaded by renowned sourdough expert and author, Maurizio Leo. The immersive program, a collaboration with TASTE and Food Time’s Matt Rodbard and veteran Italian tour director Angela, offered participants an unparalleled exploration of Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy’s rich culinary traditions, blending intensive sourdough workshops with exclusive visits to celebrated food producers and historical sites. This unique travel experience, following a successful 2024 trip to Puglia and Naples, underscored a growing trend in specialized food tourism that prioritizes hands-on learning and authentic cultural engagement over conventional sightseeing.
The journey commenced with an aperitivo, a quintessentially Italian pre-dinner ritual, where participants indulged in an array of local delicacies including ethereal focaccia, bresaola-topped croissant buns, creamy regional cheeses, and mineral-forward white wine. This initial spread, substantial enough to serve as a full meal, set the tone for the fortnight of culinary abundance and intentional indulgence that characterized the tour. For many, it was a symbolic embrace of the Italian philosophy of "dolce vita," where food is not merely sustenance but a deeply embedded cultural experience.
Week 1: Mastering Sourdough in Bologna
The first week was anchored in Bologna, the vibrant capital of Emilia-Romagna, often affectionately known as "La Grassa" (The Fat One) for its unparalleled culinary heritage. Here, Leo led an intensive sourdough workshop at a local cooking school, guiding a group of enthusiastic bakers through the intricacies of crafting classic Italian breads. The curriculum was ambitious, covering baguettes, country loaves, ciabatta, and pizza, all utilizing a diverse range of Italian flours.
Bologna’s status as a gastronomic epicentre made it an ideal location for the workshop. The city is renowned for its tortellini, tagliatelle al ragù, and mortadella, dishes that speak to centuries of refined culinary practice. Prior to the workshop, Leo and Rodbard sampled these traditions at Antica Osteria del Mirasole, setting a high standard for the culinary excursions planned for the group. This foundational experience highlighted the region’s commitment to quality ingredients and time-honored techniques, principles that resonated throughout the sourdough instruction.
A key aspect of Leo’s teaching philosophy emphasized hands-on interaction with dough. He noted, "Poking dough with your own finger is worth a thousand words." This direct engagement was crucial, allowing students to develop an intuitive understanding of dough’s texture, elasticity, and aroma—qualities that are challenging to convey through written instruction alone. The workshop provided ample opportunity for participants to physically mix, knead, and shape various doughs, from lean country loaves to enriched variations incorporating local olives, herbs, and lemon zest.
One practical challenge encountered during the workshop was adapting to the local Type 00 flour. Known for its fine texture and lower protein content compared to many Western flours, Italian Type 00 flour requires careful handling, especially in Bologna’s humid environment. Leo, anticipating this, had adjusted recipes by reducing hydration levels by at least 5%, though he observed that further reduction or more intensive mixing was sometimes necessary. This provided an invaluable real-world troubleshooting lesson, demonstrating how experienced bakers adapt to environmental factors and ingredient variations. For instance, when dough proved unexpectedly slack, participants learned to strengthen it through additional folds during bulk fermentation or by incorporating a second preshape, turning a potential setback into a practical learning opportunity.
The workshop culminated in a festive pizza party, where the bread oven was fired up to bake over twenty sourdough pizzas. Participants enjoyed stretching their own dough and customizing their creations with an incredible array of local ingredients: fresh fior di latte mozzarella, creamy gorgonzola, savory prosciutto, and ripe figs. This communal baking experience, blending skill application with convivial dining, encapsulated the spirit of the entire tour.
Preparing the Sourdough Starter for International Travel
A critical preparatory step for Leo involved meticulously preparing his sourdough starter for international travel. Recognizing the delicate nature of a living culture, he mixed the starter to a stiff consistency (50% water to total flour) for carry-on, and as a precautionary measure, prepared a second batch for checked luggage. Upon arrival in Bologna, the immediate priority was to procure local flour from a Carrefour supermarket and revive the starter. A rapid 3-hour ripening time with equal parts flour, starter, and warm water ensured its vitality, making it ready for use by the next morning. This meticulous care underscored the professional dedication required for such specialized culinary endeavors.
Week 2: A Culinary Odyssey from Bologna to Milan
Following a brief interlude that included a visit to Olivieri, a renowned panettone baker near Verona, the tour transitioned into its second phase: a six-day curated exploration of Northern Italian food culture. This segment, designed to be even more immersive, featured exclusive access to producers, bakeries, and retailers not typically open to the public.
The journey began in Riolo di Terme, a serene spa town near Bologna, where Leo led a sourdough piadine workshop. Piadine, a local flatbread, served with prosciutto and regional cheeses, offered a relaxed introduction for the new group of travelers and a delightful ice-breaker. The following day brought a visit to Monghidoro, where participants explored an ancient chestnut flour mill and traditional stone mills. This deep dive into local grain production was complemented by a visit to Forno Calzolari, a family bakery. Here, Matteo and his family hosted a sourdough starter workshop, dough shaping session, and a bake-off in their wood-fired oven. The bakery’s commitment to locally grown and milled grains resonated deeply, providing healthful bread for their community, and showcasing a model of sustainable, artisanal production. The simple, wood-fired tomatoes served alongside their breads were described as "out of this world," highlighting the quality of local ingredients.
An impromptu aperitivo later that evening further exemplified the tour’s spirit, with bakery treats and Olivieri panettone shared amongst guests, accompanied by spritzes and local music.
Emilia-Romagna’s Pasta Queens and Culinary Icons
The tour then shifted focus to another cornerstone of Emilia-Romagna cuisine: pasta. At VSB (Vecchia Scuola Bolognese), participants received an introduction to the art of rolling sfoglia (pasta dough) from Maestra Spisni and her family. While acknowledging that mastering this craft takes years, the workshop provided a fun and engaging opportunity to create fresh tortelloni for lunch. This hands-on experience offered a profound appreciation for the skill and tradition embedded in Italian pasta making.
A guided walking tour through Bologna followed, encompassing historical sites, bustling food markets, and further tastings of freshly made tortellini and tortelloni. Despite previous indulgences, the allure of perfectly prepared pasta with butter and sage proved irresistible. The day concluded with a visit to Cremeria La Vecchia Stalla for gelato, though Cremeria Cavour was cited as Leo’s personal favorite, reinforcing the region’s reputation for exceptional dairy products. Dinner at Ristorante Da Cesari, featuring excellent pasta with ragù, provided a robust carb-load for the adventures ahead.
The exploration of regional specialties continued with a private tour of Latteria La Grande, a large-scale Parmigiano Reggiano producer. Participants witnessed the meticulous process of transforming raw milk into immense wheels of cheese, a testament to the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) standards that ensure the cheese’s authenticity and quality. The sight of towering stacks of aging Parmigiano Reggiano left many in awe, leading to significant purchases and, for some, the acquisition of an extra suitcase. This was followed by a tour and tasting at Acetaia Leonardi, where traditional balsamic vinegar was sampled, showcasing its versatility in dishes ranging from cheese and bread pairings to pasta and even panettone.
Milan: Panettone, Innovation, and Farewell
The final leg of the journey brought the group to Milan, a city that starkly contrasts Bologna’s traditionalism with its blend of industry, fashion, and contemporary cuisine. Milanese gastronomy, with its focus on risotto, cotoletta, and trendy aperitivo scenes, offered a different, yet equally rich, culinary landscape.
Before diving into a two-day panettone workshop, a stop at Pasticceria Marchese provided an espresso and a slice of panettone described as "one of the best I’ve tasted in Italy." Its light, open crumb, perfectly proportioned high-quality candied fruit, and absence of glaze epitomized the traditional Milanese style, setting a high bar for the upcoming workshop. The panettone workshop itself, while an introduction to what Leo considers one of the most challenging breads to make, offered an overview of the complex process, including hands-on dividing, shaping, and scoring the dough. This provided participants with a foundational understanding of the intricate fermentation and preparation required for this iconic sweet bread.
The tour’s final day included a visit to Davide Longoni’s bakery, a highly respected establishment known for its commitment to growing, milling, and using its own grains. The bakery’s efficient, laboratory-like space and prototype in-house mill highlighted a dedication to controlling every aspect of the bread-making process, from grain to finished loaf. The passionate and knowledgeable guide underscored the bakery’s unwavering focus on crafting exceptional products. The visit concluded with a group tasting of their various breads, paired with local cheeses, meats, and wines. Longoni’s "pizza alla palla," a light and airy focaccia, was particularly lauded, offering a perfect blend of texture and delicate flavor.
The farewell dinner at Bistrot Da Giacomo, a refined establishment with elegant decor and impeccable service, served as a poignant culmination of the two-week journey. Beyond the elevated cuisine, the meal cemented the deep camaraderie formed among the participants. Traveling with individuals who share a passion for food and baking creates bonds that transcend typical timelines, fostering friendships that feel years in the making over mere days. One attendee even penned a song, "Bread can be moving! Thank you, Susan," illustrating the profound impact of the shared experience.
Broader Implications and Future Outlook
This specialized culinary tour exemplifies the growing demand for experiential travel that offers more than just sightseeing. It highlights the value of hands-on learning, cultural immersion, and direct engagement with artisanal producers. Such trips contribute significantly to local economies, support traditional crafts, and foster a deeper appreciation for regional food systems. For participants, they offer not just new skills but also a richer understanding of culinary heritage and the universal language of food.
Plans are already underway for future expeditions, with a break scheduled for 2026, and a return planned for 2027. The organizer invites feedback on desired future destinations, signaling a continued commitment to offering these unique, deeply enriching travel opportunities for "bread-heads" and food enthusiasts worldwide. The success of this Northern Italy tour solidifies the model of combining expert-led workshops with authentic cultural exploration, affirming that the best way to experience a country is not merely as a tourist, but as a traveler, and indeed, as a baker.
